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In which the author goes on a tour of Los Angeles in order to eat her way through the regions of Mexico

October 1st, 2012 · 18 Comments

Time for a change of pace here, kids.

So this is the result of a trip to Los Angeles in the spring, where I had possibly the best journalism assignment OF MY LIFE. Eat Mexican food til it comes out your ears and write about it.

(For those who care, I paid my own way and all my own restaurant bills.)

I may have gone a little overboard the day I had three lunches, but otherwise it was bliss. I got to see parts of Los Angeles that I might have thought of driving into. Not Boyle Heights or commercial East L.A. That was fine.

But some of the more desolate parts of Olympic Boulevard, hmm. However, there I discovered the Mariscos Jalisco truck, which I still dream about. A simple truck, across the street from a social housing complex and surrounded by light industrial elsewhere, it had the most unusual tacos I’ve ever tasted. Filled with shrimp and a touch of octopus, crimped on the edges and lightly fried, then covered with a tomato-y sauce.

Plus the fun of eating on the planter in front of some warehouse with a bunch of other foodie nutters who have driven out to eat and moan over their food, plus a young Hispanic couple with a mattress in the back of a truck who drove up — not, I imagine, because they had seen a glowing reference to the truck in LA Weekly but because the truck is just, well, a shrine.

Oh dear, I’m getting sad and hungry just writing this. And there is nothing like this in Vancouver. I don’t care what all of you have written in the past when I have whined on about the lack of Mexican food here. We are a wasteland.

La Taqueria has great flavour combinations, but the menu is limited. And I like Sal Y Limon on Fraser, but it should be one of about 100 places like this in Vancouver that are all up and down the spectrum of cheap/fancy, regional/general, traditional/fusion.

So please, we are begging all of you — leave Los Angeles and San Francisco, where Republicans will never let many of your people become citizens anyway, and come here.

Categories: Uncategorized

  • Roger Kemble

    Ummmmm, comida Mexicana!

    I ate en La Ciudad de Mexico from spring 1997 to fall 1998. It was nothing like what you are writing about Frances.

    Generally, I patronized desayuno breakfast at Café Populaire, almuerzo , lunch, at VIPS (pronounced VEEPS), and dinner, cena at Sandbornes.

    VIPS’s service, décor and cameraras were quite similar to the White Spot except that tocino y huevos was always served with frijoles.

    Everything in Mexico is served with frijoles even in the poshest restaurants!

    When I wanted to impress Elizabet we would eat at Sanbornes, an elegant restaurant, dated before the revolution or La Opera for my visiting Canadian friends: the food at the latter was so-so, pescado Vera Cruz the exception, but Pancho Villa’s bullet hole was still well preserved in the ceiling!

    Sometimes I would pop over to Mercado Pujibet to pick up goodies to eat-in as I watched the family crying channels: avocados, inexpensive: queso same price as here. Uvas always on the menu.

    Tacos on the street, especially the arenques fritos, from the nice lady from Vera Cruz on Calle Republic de Salvador y carretera Larzaro Cardenas, were my favourite lunch. The lady on Mesones did a good taco too!

    Street eating? I never got sick!

    Guelaguetza time in Oaxaca needs a wake-up. The instant coffee served was the lousiest I’ve ever sent back: and I’m a coffee freak and Oaxaca is a coffee State!!!

    Mexican food! I thinq the stuff you are eating Frances is jazzed up for local consumption.

  • Raingurl

    What an appropriate post for TACO TUESDAY! All I have to look forward to is Taco Time tacos for lunch. LOL. I agree, give Canada a chance to enjoy what Mexico has to offer without leaving the city. 🙂

  • teririch

    @Raingurl

    If you have the opportunity, try the food truck – ‘Off the Wagon’ – it is bright red and the ladies that run it are fabulous.

    Their tacos are really good, very fresh. I’m a vegetarian and love their black beean and roasted yam. And they make their own habanaro sauce, which will take your breath away….and then give it back…LOL.

    Other than that, Chronic Tacos are not bad – I quite like their burritos.

  • Dan Cooper

    “…it should be one of about 100 places like this in Vancouver that are all up and down the spectrum of cheap/fancy, regional/general, traditional/fusion.”

    This is true, and the lack is lamentable! Admittedly, the other side of that coin is the equivalent wealth in Asian restaurants. The 150,000-resident city/town where I grew up in the northwestern US didn’t have anything other than “American,” “Mexican,” and “Chinese American” restaurants until the 1990s…and even Portland where I lived later did not have nearly the variety and depth of pan-Asian restaurants available in the Vancouver area. The reason, of course, is not hard to see: in my old home town even the very “lost dog” signs on the telephone poles are often bilingual English/Spanish, but there were exactly two families with Asian ancestry in my entire (1600 student) high school; authentic restaurants follow population…

  • Roger Kemble

    You’ll all get really fat eating this pseudo Mexican local junk whereas eating the real stuff . . . not so!

    You’ll die young too . . .

  • MB

    Oh man.

    This article makes me believe in free trade.

    P-l-e-a-s-e let’s trade dour Stephen Harper for Mexico’s happy food and sunshine.

  • Frances Bula

    Teri Rich

    We have occasionally disagreed in the past about political things, but all those disagreements pale next to our opinions about Chronic Taco. On the basis of blog comments responding to my last taco post about a year ago, I went to Chronic specifically because of the recommendations. It was horrible. The worst kind of chain-production food served up by couldn’t-care-less staff I have ever experienced. I had to wait forever (even though it was 3 in the afternoon) and finally got a burrito that was filled with lukewarm, tasteless something. Ugh. The Mexican government should sue.

  • ThinkOutsideABox

    Mmmm Chronic Taco. Soon to come a K-Hole Chicken, and a Junkie Juice chain for a cheap date with Tina and a Peruvian Lady.

  • Raingurl

    @teririch // Oct 2, 2012 at 10:27 am

    Is “Off The Wagon” the one in Gastown? I rarely eat off a truck. The only one I’ve used for the past twenty something years is the smokie truck at Robson and Burrard and that’s only once a year. (it’s a tradition now) Maybe I should mix up my “Taco Tuesday” just a little…….thanks! (never been to Chronic Taco and since I appreciate Frances’ opinion now I never will….sorry Teri!)

  • Raingurl

    giggling@THINKOUTSIDEABOX. It would be even funnier if I knew who Tina was. 😛

  • F.H.Leghorn

    Best LA food : El Tepeyac in East. Full of 300 pound (and up) Mexicans and they serve a burrito the size of a small suitcase.

  • Mike

    Frances (well, everyone really)

    Try Tacofino Commissary at Hastings and Nanaimo. Also try Dona Cata on Victoria near 33rd for more traditional Mexican. Both are excellent.

    Now if we could just get someone up here that knows how to do a proper “Papas Locas” We would really be going in the right direction.

    And trust me; I share your feelings about Chronic Tacos. Who knew that Knorr made tortilla soup base?

  • Frances Bula

    @Mike. Oh, thanks for reminding me about Tacofino. I have eaten at the truck a couple of times and loved it but haven’t managed to get to the commissary during open hours. Dona Cata, btw, is closing.

  • Frances Bula

    @Leghorn. On my itinerary now for my next trip to LA

  • teririch

    @ Frances Bula #7:

    I am sorry to here that.

    From time to time I go the Chronic Taco on
    W 4th at Burrard (roughly) and the food has always been decent.

    I fully realize it is a far cry from true Mexican fare, but I can honestly say I’ve not had a bad burrito there….. 🙂

    When you get back – do try ‘Off the Wagon’. They used to set up at the Kits Farmer’s Market on Sundays and then were given a location downtown at Burrard and Melville (by the Skytrain) However, they have been shifted a few times. Their food is more towards the traditional Mexican taco.

  • Raingurl

    @11 F.H.Leghorn // Oct 3, 2012 at 9:18 am
    Imagine the gassy smells coming out of that place……..lol

  • ThinkOutsideABox

    Raingurl, it’s off-colour satire that extends from the drug slang suggested by the word “chronic”.

    Chronic is aka high quality weed, while k-hole, Tina, Peruvian Lady etc. all slang in drug culture.

  • Roger Kemble

    FHL @ #11

    El Tepeyac . . .300 pounds . . . small suite cases

    Cerro Tepeyac is where Juan Diego had the vision of La Virgin Morenita

    Somehow it all fits . . .