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Bulletin from Chicago, home of key Vancouverites

May 2nd, 2011 · 16 Comments

Kathleen Bartels, Vancouver Art Gallery director. Sadhu Johnston, deputy city manager. Mike Shiffer, senior TransLink planner. Chicagoans (is that the right word?) all. So I finally decided to come here and see what inspired them.

What do I see?

– A city hall that looks like the world’s biggest secure bank, a massive building with four-storey-high columns filling up a whole downtown block. No doubt about where the power sits here.

– A city transit system that is premised on the idea of allowing people to travel around on rail tracks at second-storey level. Like our SkyTrain, Chicago’s El isn’t buried, but gives people a great visual tour of the city. Including a big loop of elevated rail that encircles the downtown, though they have giant metal trains, not like our little Playmobil SkyTrain system. Amazing to think of putting something like that into Vancouver downtown streets — people would go nuts. Incredible noise and shadowing underneath, but it’s unique.

– Incredibly cheap transit. A three-day unlimited pass is $14; a monthly pass $86, only $5 more than a one-zone pass in Vancouver, but with a vastly bigger range and frequency of service.

– A city that seems to be able to combine old and new harmoniously. There are glass towers, forests of them, especially along the lakeshore, but they’re interspersed with grand old plaster-festooned apartment buildings. In most of the city, acres and acres of pleasant sidestreets with brick houses, duplexes and (like where I’m staying) fourplexes built out at a steady two, three or four storeys, pressed close together but every one with a small pocket yard, filled with flowers these days.

– At first glance, lots of interesting public art. The “bean,” of course, the metallic blob in Millennium Park that is a tourist magnet, because it reflects the city and everyone around it in endless combinations.

I’ll spare myself some scathing blog comments (maybe) by noting that I’m aware of Chicago’s difficult history of corruption and racism, so I don’t imagine it’s perfect.

But wonderful to feel yourself in the middle of a thriving city that seems filled with confidence and beauty. A stark contrast to our brief two hours in Detroit, five hours away. The empty downtown had big beautiful buildings, but was completely empty, except for one lonely tour group, on a Sunday. Outside the downtown, the occasional brave loft development, but many crumbling, abandoned-looking buildings and empty, shelled streets.

The most encouraging sign of life: the people who jammed into the cafe we stopped at near the Motown Historical Museum, a post-church crowd dressed for Sunday service, piling in for a big feel of fried chicken, waffles, and collard greens. As we were leaving, a young woman who’d parked her car behind ours in the lot next door stood up to move it so we could get out.

“How could you tell it was our car?” I joked, since it was obvious that we, the only white family in the joint, were likely the owners of the rental car with the Quebec licence plates. “Oh, I could tell you weren’t from around here,” she replied seriously before reversing her car so we could squeeze out.

Categories: Uncategorized

  • Michael Geller

    Frances, before you leave Chicago, do try to make time for lake and river boat tours of the city’s sights and architectural delights…also, check out the Chicago Architecture Foundation.

    And of course, you’ll want to find a good deli or chop house…there’s nothing like them here in Vcr.

  • George

    Frances,
    Chicago, home of Nine West shoe warehouse….just sayin 😉

  • Creek’er

    Lucky we both had nice weather for our visit. Love Chi-town! Amazing city. Was at the bean at Millenium park late Sunday night after a marathon day of Macy’s shopping.

  • Wayne

    One of my favourite cities.

    As Michael says, absolutely, if you have time take a Chicago Architecture Foundation Walking Tour or maybe their bus tour to Oak Park or Robe House.

    I’m sure you’ll find your way to the Art Institute of Chicago without any prompting from the peanut gallery.

    The bean is great. Gehry’s open air bandstand, not so much.

    Have fun.

  • Michelle

    Huh?

    My question is this:

    How come all this imports made it to Vancouver? How come the selection committee couldn’t find a single decent Canadian to do these jobs? How many of them did actually compete for these jobs instead of being offered the jobs through inside channels?
    Nepotism, corruption, politicization of the bureaucracy – Chicago, Chicago, Chicago.
    Hey I have an idea, the corruption from Chicago, bring it to Vancouver! Now that some shady character is trying to move into Chicago’s City Hall, you know who, Manolo form the White House, when asked about him, his former staff almost puked only by thinking at him… God save them Chicagoans.
    And look what we brought here:

    Bartels
    a total farce who did nothing to this day to enhance the VAG experience, wants now the public to spend 500 million plus dollars for her wet dream of a bigger Art Hall…and a bigger title for her.
    Sadhu
    a pumped up incompetent, overpaid deputy who’s only contribution so far to this city is in the form of local global warming… El Nino from his daily BS.
    Mike
    sure make it more expensive, ask for a Broadway corridor skytrain line…pnch in the transit users.
    So don’t tell me that you are visiting Chicago Frances, I don’t want to know about it. Too much pain here in Vancouver coming from that bunch . Election day cannot come soon enough. Clean house and stuff.
    Amen.

  • Max

    @Michelle #5

    When S. Johnston was first announced as being hired to the City, I asked the same question. From what I can tell, there was no competition opened up, yet we were in the midst of the economic downturn and people, Canadians, were praying for jobs.

    Turns out – he and Robertson and Solomon had something in common ….Hollyhock.

    Smile, nod and drink the kool aide.

  • Frances Bula

    Ah, this is all reminding me of a long-ago course I took in Canadian history, where the prof quoted a historian who said Canada was a country made up of anti-American ex-Yankees.

    Anyway, for the more positive people — thanks for all the suggestions. Chicago Architecture Foundation boat tour was already booked and we’re looking at the other things available. Robe House? Haven’t run across that yet. I’ll check it out. Nine West shoe warehouse? Is there any room left in the closet? I’ll have to contemplate that.

  • Everyman

    Amazing how the crime rate and poverty in Chicago can be overlooked so easily Frances. Google “Chicago teen shootings” for a start.

  • Joe Just Joe

    Did you find out why they all left Chicago?
    I have a hard time understanding how Chicago has lost people every census for 60yrs now and are now back below 1920 levels. Perhaps trains in the sky really are scary.

  • gmgw

    @Frances #7:
    Take note that the correct spelling name of the edifice under discussion is (the) Robie (house), not “Robe”. Further info can be found here:
    http://www.gowright.org/research/wright-robie-house.html
    And I’ve never even been to Chicago… (big Wright fan, though).
    gmgw

  • Roger Kemble

    To hell with Kathleen, Sadhu and Mike . . .

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=tY6tBMcmt1A

    Let’s get some real traction from the wheat Belt . . .

  • Sean Bickerton

    As Wayne mentioned, the Art Institute! Also, Orchestra Hall in Chicago is one of the best concert halls in North America, and to hear Muti conduct that extraordinary orchestra in Strauss is not to be missed if you’re still there Thursday – http://cso.org/TicketsAndEvents/EventDetails.aspx?eid=3498

    Great architecture, great food, great park downtown … but let’s not let them off hook entirely – they are also responsible for Chicago School of “Economics” that nearly destroyed the free market 3 years ago, so there is that …

  • MB

    @ Sean 12:

    “Great architecture, great food, great park downtown … but let’s not let them off hook entirely – they are also responsible for Chicago School of “Economics” that nearly destroyed the free market 3 years ago, so there is that …”
    ———-

    Three years? Try 30, right back to Reagan and supply side economics and 20+ percent interest rates, or 25 years locally to Bill Bennett and massive cuts to social programs while concurrently building megaprojects with the accompanying debt, calling the entire twisted thing “restraint”.

    Some of us have long memories and a deep, deep reservoir of cynicism.

  • Gerry McGuire

    re 13 MB’s resposnse to Sean. And how. The latest news on BC Place is that there are problems installing the cables leading to $25 million more cost. When I mentioned this to a BC Place worker he rolled his eyes and said “You ain’t seen nothing yet”! It’s just the tip of the iceberg.

  • Max

    @ Gerry McGuire #14

    Isn’t BC Place on a fixed contract? As in any overrun costs are covered by the developer and not off loaded?

    ‘We are very pleased to have entered into a fixed-price contract to redevelop this British Columbia landmark and, in doing so, create valuable jobs in our community and build upon a lasting legacy for our residents,” says Podmore

  • mezzanine

    @Gerry and Max,

    yes, the contractor and subcontractor are responsible for the loss.

    —–

    “He said Canam has set aside $25 million to cover the cost over-run and that he expects there will be no impact on either the cost to B.C. taxpayers or on the scheduled Sept. 30 opening of the stadium for a B.C. Lions game.

    Dutil described the complexity of the cable system, held in place by towers 15 storeys high, as “mind-boggling.”

    He said the difficulty in costing the project arose over the sheer size of the job. As the size of a complex job like building a roof increases, the scale of difficulties grows exponentially.

    —–

    “We’ve had to work overtime, we’ve had to bring in a lot of people. It’s been a busy work site. But everybody pitched in to make sure we deliver the stadium in time.”

    The overall contract for the retractable roof was awarded to PCL, which sub-contracted the steel fabrication and cable assembly to the Canam Group for $120 million.

    The Canam Group, in turn, sub-contracted the cable assembly to French company Freyssinet. Dutil said Canam is attempting to work out a plan to recover some of the losses with its sub-contractor.”

    http://www.vancouversun.com/Place+roof+million+over+budget/4687843/story.html#ixzz1KpTb3EY9